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Wednesday, March 4, 2015

Oral and Visual History of Modeling and Fashion

 An Important Legacy




"A WALK THROUGH FASHION HISTORY WITH THOSE WHO LIVED IT"  © 2014

Oral History Initiative - Multi-Media - Project

Starring FASHION AND BEAUTY ICONS.
DOCUMENTARY / TALK SHOW FORMAT
The History of Modeling
The History of Hairdressing
The History of  Make-Up
 The History of Couture and Pret a Porter
The History of  Fashion and Beauty Photography
The History of  Fashion and Beauty Magazines
 EVER EVOLVING HISTORY
  • Oral history is the systematic collection of living people’s testimony about their own experiences. Historians have finally recognized that the memories of everyday people, not just the rich and famous, have historical significance.  This projects presents fascinating stories in an attractive talk show setting with Celebrity Hosts and exciting Narrators (Interviewees/Special Guests)
  • Memories, such as these, shared by our Model History members, have great importance to society and to the history of art and design. If we do not collect and preserve those memories, those stories, then one day they will disappear forever and younger generations will just have to guess the truth.
  • In this Oral History dozens of Fashion and Beauty Icons of the Fifties, Sixties, Seventies, and Eighties share their eyewitness accounts of working at the top during the innovative mid-Twentieth Century, revealing the treasures of their exceptional experiences from unique insider perspectives.
  • In addition to recording the detailed perspectives of the models, photographers, creative artists etc., these interviews typically get at "the story underneath the story," the intricacies of decision-making, the personal rivalries and alliances within the creative teams.
IN DEVELOPMENT:

FASHION AND BEAUTY ICONS OF THE 1980s
FASHION AND BEAUTY ICONS OF THE 1990s
  • A revolving cast of fashionable Models, Photographers, Archivists, Beauty Artists, Editors, Agents, Authors, and Art Directors narrates the production, shot in a talk show format, with documentary aspects and multimedia displays, including the music of the eras.
  • Each episode highlights a different aspect of the History of Fashion and Beauty, which is reflected in the fashionable sets.  Historical events, current music, and other relevant topics are touched upon, as fascinating Narrators bring the history of Fashion and Beauty to life.
COCO CHANEL IN PARIS 1910

TWENTIES/THIRTIES/FORTIES MODELING MILESTONES
Modeling by Debutantes
Harry Conover Agency
John Robert Powers
Walter Thornton
Eileen Ford Becomes Top Agency
Models in the Movies
Lauren Bacall
Lucile Ball
Top Designers



Dorian Leigh



FIFTIES MODELING MILESTONES FIRST HAND ACCOUNTS
Top Designers
Eileen Ford Expands Agency
Dorian Leigh Opens Agency in Paris
Suzy Parker Discovered by Ford
Gita Hall First Hand Accounts upon availability.
Ruth Neumann and Gleb Derujinsky for Bazaar upon availability Narrated by Daughter and Curator upon availability
Jean Patchett Super Star – Narrated by Daughter and Nephew (Curators of Extensive Private Archives)
The Models of Chanel’s Cabine
SIXTIES MODELING MILESTONES FIRST HAND ACCOUNTS
Top Designers of USA and Europe
1960 Influence of Jacqueline Kennedy in US
1964 Scandinavian and German Models Rule
JEAN SHRIMPTON & DAVID BAILEY MOD
Top Hair and Beauty Artists
Kenneth – Pablo
Episode: 1965 Vidal Sassoon – The Beatles –
Mary Quant THE MINI SKIRT CARNABY STREET to PORTOBELLO ROAD
1966 FUTURISM IN FASHION
Cardin – Couregges – and other Haute Couture
Andy Warhol Pop Art Influence
Music of the Times
DIANA VREELAND in Vogue
Veruschka – Marissa Berenson
SIXTIES MOVIE STARS ON COVERS OF VOGUE
Princess Grace – Liz Taylor- Barbara Streisand- Sophia Lauren - Cher
TWIGGY HITS NEW YORK – Waif Look
PARIS IN THE SIXTIES FIRST HAND ACCOUNTS
Haute Couture – Only a few Houses left.
The Designers: Chanel – Cardin – Patou –Dior- Givenchy- etc.
American Models in Paris Jerry Hall, Grace Jones, More
Nicole de la Marge – The greatest French Photo model
Parisian Magazines Elle – Vogue Paris- l’Officielle
Audrey Hepburn - Givenchy
The Photographers: Horst –Penn- etc.
European Photographers
The Agents -Paris Planning –Catherine Harle – Dorian Leigh
Emergence of John Casablancas who revolutionized the modeling world.
PARIS IN THE SEVENTIES FIRST HAND ACCOUNTS
1969 Moon Landing Space Age
Opening of Elite: Playboys Take Over Modeling Industry
Emergence of Milan – Italian Vogue Italian Bazaar
Opening of Prestige Model Agency: Antonio Lopez and Jerry Hall New Agencies – Christa Fiedler
Helmut Newton – Guy Bourdin –Chris von Wagenheim
The French Mafia (Top New Photographers)
Sex and Violence and Nudity in Vogue
Yves St Laurent – Karl Lagerfeld – Chanel
Other Haute Couture Houses.
1969 Black Models Take Center Stage and wow the Parisians in the Seventies as well as the whole fashion world.
Seventies Modeling Moments Firsthand Accounts
Designers
Photographers
The Models
The Agents
ALL FEATURED GUESTS ARE ROLE MODELS, ENGAGED IN GIVING BACK, HELPING OTHERS, EDUCATION, WOMEN'S CAUSES, ANIMAL RIGHTS, EQUAL RIGHTS, CHILDREN’S RIGHTS, HELPING THE HOMELESS AND MANY OTHER CHARITIES.
WHO IS TELLING THE STORIES?
THE INTERVIEWS – Oral Histories
These interviews certainly add to our store of knowledge, particularly illuminating the relationship of the Narrator to iconic Fashion and Beauty creations and major trends.  Their Oral Histories eloquently portray the dynamic careers of outstanding individuals, accompanied by brilliant images, footage, and collages.
Brimming with information about the various strategies used to take their place in history, the Narrators articulate the shifts in the power dynamics between the models, the agencies, the designers, the photographers, and the clients throughout the eras.  Every interview opens new doors of rare information.
Recounting the experiences, they reveal the treasures of their exceptional experiences as articulate, interested, and intelligent top models who, for a moment or for a lifetime, participated in something rare, creative, and magnificent.
Most interviews focus on definite topics like participation in a specific historically significant photo-shoot or fashion show.  Historians, specializing in fashion and beauty history, formulate the well-researched questions.  All Narrators (Special Guest/Interviewees) are asked to comment on the careers of other noteworthy individuals.  All questions are sent to the Narrator (Interviewee/Guest) beforehand.
Whether they contributed as a model or other industry professional, our Narrators (Special Guests/Interviewees) are understood as purposeful actors in the past and present history of Fashion and Beauty, talking about their lives in ways that illuminate and expand upon preexisting categories of analysis.

This is a living and growing library of priceless Oral History - iconic photographs and film clips used with permission.
1910  Chanel opened a millinary boutique on Rue CamboIn 1918, Chanel was able to acquire the entire building at 31 rue Cambon situated in one of the most fashionable districts of Paris. In 1921, she opened what may be considered an early incarnation of the fashion boutique, featuring clothing, hats, and accessories later expanded to offer jewelry and fragrance. By 1927, Chanel owned an expanse of five properties on the rue Cambon, encompassing buildings numbered 23 through 31.
“It is not difficult to understand how, in interview after interview, oral history opens up new views of the past.  In an interview, the voice of the narrator literally contends with that of the historian for control of the story.  For oral history interviews are often quite simply good stories.  Like literature, their specificity, their deeply personal, often emotionally resonant accounts of individual experience draw listeners--or readers--in, creating interest and sympathy.  Edited carefully they can open the listener to a life very different from his or her own in a non-threatening way.”
HISTORY MATTERS http://historymatters.gmu.edu/mse/oral/interpret.html

Fashion and Beauty Icons website.
Before the airing, a website will be launched.  The current projects, products, charities and biographies of the participants, will be featured with links to their websites if so desired.  The website will be an ever-expanding archive of fashion and beauty images with stories.

Sunday, October 12, 2014

We Were There




  • Fashion and Beauty in the Fifties and Sixties in New York -Working with Women in Fashion and Beauty - Coco Chanel, Helena Rubenstein, Elizabeth Arden, Mary Quant, Barbara Harnuki, China Michado, Jean Patchett, Schiaparelli, Marissa Berenson, Diana Vreeland, Carmella Snow, Grace Codington, Carita Sisters, and more – We were there.

  • Eileen Ford was the undisputed best model agency in the world, searching for the most marketable fashion models on the planet. Like a fairy Godmother, she would transform their lives.  Plucked from obscurity she would send them on an unforgettable adventure.  - We were there.

  • The British Invasion – All Eyes on London – We were there. Michaeljohn, a top salon in Mayfair. Vidal Sassoon, Leonard.   Clive Arrowsmith, Norman Parkinson, Barry Lategan, Norman Eales  and more.  We were there.

  • Sixties Supermodel Wilhelmina leaves Ford and opens her own agency. - We were there.

  • Untold stories abound about Paris in the Swinging Sixties, parodied by William Klein in Who Are You, Polly Magoo?” - We were there.

  • Diana Vreeland at Vogue: We were there

  • Fashion photographers became “Rock Stars” in the Sixties and Seventies. We were there.

  • The Sixties went out with a bang as LIFE Magazine declares: “Black Models Take Center Stage,”  later wowing the Parisians and the world. - We were there.

  • John Casablancas opens Elite Agency in Paris, changing the dynamics of the model-agent relationship. We were there.

  • The emergence of the Seventies brought about revolutionary changes in design, photography, and beauty in Paris and New York -We were there.

  • Zoli opens his innovative model agency in New York City. We were there.

  • Young male and female models traveled long distances to work in cities whose languages they did not understand to participate in historical fashion shows and photo-shoots in Milan, Munich, Zurich, and Barcelona. - We were there.

  • The Eighties- brought more changes in the Industry. Opening up of more markets, models were being sent to Paris, Milan, and Japan at very young ages.

  • Beauty artists, hair stylists and make-up artists emerged as stars creating Looks. We were there

  • The Supermodels of the Eighties become international celebrities. We were there.

  • Working with Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton and other great photographers. – We were there.

  • Working with Chanel, Christian Dior, Pierre Cardin, Karl Lagerfeld, Yves St Laurent, Steven Boroughs, and other great designers. We were there.

  • The Inspiration of London, Paris Milan, New York and other cities in the history of Fashion and Beauty. We were there.

  • The Greatest Influences in Hair styling and Make-up - Kenneth, Vidal Sassoon, Alexandre de Paris, Leonard, more. We were there.



The above is a small overview of the topics covered in this continuing development of our Oral History.

Friday, December 13, 2013

Dina Mori


Thank you, Bonnie, for creating this new album for Dina Mori! Here are a few of her lovely photos:



1956 Judy Bond Ad


February 1957 McCall's Magazine


December 1958 Seventeen Magazine


1959 Jergens Ad

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Back Story Cover Photo



Dear D.D.

I am so happy you found that cover.  The story behind is that although I was starting to work with the magazines in Paris in 1967- 68, I had fallen in love with a French aristocrat,  My fiance did not want me to model in Paris. He thought Paris was much to dangerous for a young American girl. He knew the business was fraught with womanizers and worse. Anything could happen.

 I insisted on working because there was a lot of demand for my gamine type in Milan, Germany and Switzerland too.  Everyone wanted the short hair and the oddly familiar face. It was too much money to just throw away even though he wanted me to just sit around and be taken care of by him. 


 We compromised and I worked a lot on those countries.  There was no partying, no scene. no in crowd.  It was very business like. I would fly in for several days at a time.I worked constantly and never saw the pictures. By the time the pictures came out in Italy, I was in Zurich or Munich or even Vienna and Barcelona.  

I had some great times with other models and seeing the sights, learning the languages, eating the food.  Even Mlano was all business until Ricardo Gay started his agency.  His friends were all playboys and romanced the models.  Lot's of fun but not very professional. The business changed after Johnny Casablancas and Ricardo Gay took over.  It did become as dangerous as my fiance thought it would be.  But it was also so glam, so camp. I am glad, after our divorce I got to experience Paris in the 1970s. Many of the models I knew then are still active now in archiving the Model History.

Saturday, August 17, 2013

Lauren Hutton

When I first started to work as a model, I met a very young Lauren Hutton.  We did a couple of small ads and catalog jobs.  I started to work for mademoiselle and Lauren soared to the heights when she made a big impression on Diana Vreeland.